The big blue – AMORGOS

After leaving the island of IOS we go back to the North and the small Cyclades. Lunch at the bottom of a "fjord" on the north side of IRAKLIA, then anchor for the night in a sheltered bay of SKHINOUSIA. A gust of wind is announced and the next day we draw edges to AMORGOS island where we will find sheltered moorings. It is with two reefs in gusting to more of 35 nodes that we are approaching Amorgos. We hope to find a reasonable shelter in Ormos Kalotaritissa, which is a nearly closed Bay...

Monday 15 February: Ormos Kalotaritissa South-West of Amorgos

Our intuition was good and many fishing boats are already sheltered in Kalotaritissa Bay where the wind is half less strong with a completely flat sea.
Whenever we arrive in a Bay , Philippe is the bar riveted on sounder while I am at the front to locate the corner of 'ideal' sand(rather than the grass in which the anchor hung hard) where anchor away from the fishing boats on dead bodies, which sometimes do not leave too much space for yachts. The summer season has not yet arrived, moorings are not invaded... at least until April, We are lucky!!!!
Unlike the rest of the island, the southwestern tip is not too steep. We would like to walk. Stroll ashore first by following the road that leads to the village, then following the trails of goats between the stunted shrubs and the seed. Goats and sheep are watching us pass without barely raising the muzzle.
At the bend of a Bay we discover a stuck wreck at the bottom of a narrow Creek.
The next day we go in the annex in this Creek to see the wreckage more closely. It is what remains of the coaster Olympia and it is one of the sights not to be missed on the island. Enzo, in the film "The big blue" by Luc Besson plunges on this wreck...
It was in 1988... now there is not much. A bunch of rust emerges in a few meters of crystal-clear water. The blackness of the sheet, the gaping holes in the hull and corrosion offers an impressive show. The wreck is expected to attract hundreds of fish we see none despite crystal clear water....

It's hot and we are exploring several bays and Islands. It is the right season to pick up a few sprigs of thyme. In our previous walks we had done the full of Sage and Rosemary... now should think to fill the fridge with something other than herbs.

The only place to make races it is the port of Katapola, located a few miles further northeast. This is the basis of departure and arrival of ferries which commute between the Islands.
We throw the anchor opposite the beach of Katapola, well away from all the wharves bordering the port. We make sure that the anchor holds well before going ashore. Amorgos island is mountainous with spectacular cliffs, the barren land is burned by the Sun, but inside some valleys are sometimes grown. The Valley of Katapola is verdant with fruit trees, vegetable crops, flowers in the fields... it feels almost in Normandy.

We get docked a few hours, to refuel diesel delivered by a small tanker truck. Feels tiny next to the "Blue Star" ferry which is 10 times the length of Tao!!!!
The Chozoviotissa monastery is one of the most beautiful site of Greece and we definitely want to visit it. It is located on the East coast of the island and it is a small 8 km uphill walk that awaits us.
We are committed on the road that climbs to Chora (main village). Hitchhiking doesnt lack cars. Finally a van takes us to the last kilometre. The streets of Chora are sometimes true labyrinths... a person who has not the meaning orientation could get lost... For us it's easy... just mount...
Then it is necessary to descend across the island by a winding path… up the road at the bottom of monastery. A car is parked, certainly that of the monk.
We climb hundreds of markets to finally discover the imposing white mass plated against the rock wall with ochre reflections. We are trying by the only door but it is closed... We call nobody answers.
We are disappointed at not being able to visit the monastery, While we travelled many kilometres. We do a half turn persuading us that the ride was worth it... A few Mills abandoned on a hill.
The market it hollow stomach and we find a small restaurant very nice terrace. The welcome in the taverns is still warm, the boss offers us a small glass of Raki made House with cinnamon and honey, specialty in Amorgos. We leave warmed and motivated for the long March that awaits us
The next day, Nathalie sympathizes with the owner of a small supermarket on the port. She tells our unsuccessful trial visit the monastery... and a few shots of son later... we are expected to next visit. No question to redo the 16 kilometers to feet and companies rent cars or scooters are all closed. Then the "buddy" Nathalie "rent us" a car for the day. Direction the monastery and a tour of the island...
Happy to arrive at the bottom of the monastery, We hasten to still climb hundreds of markets.
This time the door is open. Let's head down to go and discover the staircase flan of Cliff which ascends to the Chapel and areas of life.
Women are allowed in this place of worship Orthodox... provided that they wear a dress! It is with a cloth around the waist that Nathalie is authorized to enter.
All parts are plated against the rock wall and do only a few meters wide. Three monks greet us and tell us the steps to follow to get to the Chapel and its terrace at the top of the monastery.
Back in the living area, We headed to the "salon" where a monk serves us raki with the macaroons (first Raki from day to 10 in the morning)... then a coffee. We feel very light after this small glass.. What home!

There is only one road that crosses the North Island to the South, sometimes on a mountainside cliff, sometimes in rocky areas, but always with spectacular views over turquoise bays. This road leads us up to Aigiali, the other port of Amorgos.
Small quiet village in a fertile valley surrounded by three towns that overlook the Bay. Two bars are open by the sea, but none is used to eat. On the advice of the patron of the bar we take again the road towards one of the villages of crete.
It is pacing the streets at random, that we come across a grocery store which is Tavern. The boss takes us into his kitchen to choose a dish. Lunch in the Sun on the terrace with even a glass of Raki available.

After a busy day, and an another Raki offered by a peasant in a hut isolated on a cliff, We take the road to the port.

A few days we will continue towards the island of Leros and the Dodecanese.