Cabotage in the Cyclades 1
Finally we discover these rugged Islands in the blue and white villages perch at the top of cliffs. After a final step in the Peloponnese, We stored the bicycles at the bottom of the hold and on foot on each island we climb by road, borrow stairs which never, climbing trails following in the footsteps of goats in hillside. We are hiking specialists… Spring tip his nose and after the mild winter, These often described as arid Islands show under a green face.
Sunday 17 January: Hermioni and Poros (East of the Peloponnese)
We thought us stop in the Cove of Baltiza which houses the main port on the island of Spetses, but once at the bottom of the Bay we do half- Tower because the port is tiny with boats everywhere. The wind coming from the Northwest, the front port is too restless to anchor. Then we continue more northward to the small town of Hermioni. We Moor at the wharf facing the village and are hosted by Andrea, a Frenchwoman who lives on-site winter with her husband Christian. The same evening we organize an aperitif on board and make us share their experience of sailing in Greece.
It is in a calm weather that we leave Hermioni in the direction of Poros island. We get wet the first night among a few sailboats wintering on dead bodies. The next day we moor alongside the wharf, behind a French boat. We sympathize with Gilles and Lisa that make us discover their favorite Tavern and we spend a good time.
The temperatures are still as fresh evening, but we enjoy beautiful sunny days to walk on foot and explore the island by bicycle. The coast is swept by winds and apart from olive groves and a few almond trees in bloom cultures are rare. It is time to go for a bit of warmth to the Cyclades... Finally we imagine it is best!
Mid-January and it already smells like spring!
Monday 25 January: Island of Kythnos
We agree with Kythnos, one of the first islands of the Cyclades of the Northwest. This is a fairly steep and rugged rocky island. When we reach the wide it seems high and wild.
We throw the anchor in the Bay of Fikiadha and witnessing a parade of goats on the sand bar that connects the island of Loukas to Kythnos.
Despite the cold and the grey sky, We are going to land well wrapped in our polar and waxed. We borrow the only accessible trail and we are not too surprised to encounter no living soul...
The harbour of Loutra is only a few miles, in the North East of the island and we believe that there will be a little more 'life'... We start at dock, with as welcoming Committee a bunch of cats basking quite happy to have a bit of company Sun.
A fishing boat arrived at the port and it is an opportunity to go and see what he can sell us... lean fishing! He offers us 2 small "red" to fish 30 euros per kilo with heads and guts... we know that times are tough in winter in the Cyclades, but all the same!!!! Finally we can take comfort with a cappuccino at 3,50 EUR a Cup... definitely the life on the island sure looks us expensive...
A small walk up to the "Chora" to 6 KMS from the port (village with its white houses with blue shutters perched in the mountains) where we cross that goats, sheep and donkeys...
We leave the port to wet across the Bay. Ay Irini Bay - we use it to make water, washing machine, DIY and a bit of sewing on the Lazy-bag...
Saturday 30 January - Serifos island
The island is Dome shaped and the white houses of the Chora are by far. Livhadi Bay, main port, is in a Valley green and wooded so that the sides of the mountains are Brown and burnt by the Sun. The anchorage is quiet, as usual we are the only boat!
Small go to these famous pristine houses of white with blue shutters, "postcard" cycladic...
The Chora is silent, We follow each of its narrow streets with sometimes of the laundry hanging from the windows... We well imagine the horde of tourists summer invading these if quiet places in winter.
The Cyclades are not always burnt by the Sun
The Cyclades Islands have protected not all well ports or anchorages of prevailing winds. Our nautical guide is a source of valuable information about each possible wetting time, but ask fishermen is also a good plan... Another shot of wind is announced between 40 and 55 Knots... the Bay of Vathi to the southwest of the island of Sifnos seems to be a good shelter by winds from all sectors....